Model Books Jobs, Vogue Solves Racism

Back in July, Vogue issued a rather, shall we say, opaque denial of the existence of racism in the fashion industry. Nearly everyone cited in the article blamed someone else, and anyway, said those same people, non-white people just aren’t in style right now! Accompanying the article were photos of Arlenis Sosa, Jourdan Dunn, and Chanel Iman—because, apparently, featuring their photos in an article about racism does far more good than just booking them in fashion spreads.

In November’s “Flash,” the magazine catches up with Sosa. So, how’s that modeling-while-Dominican thing working out?

Since appearing in Vogue this past summer, Arlenis Sosa has skyrocketed into the top-model stratosphere: She walked in 28 spring shows in New York—Carolina Herrera, Narciso Rodriguez, and Ralph Lauren among them—before jetting off to conquer the catwalks of Europe.

Given Vogue’s usual taste in models, the runway success of a non-white woman isn’t the only eyebrow-raising element of this article:

At de la Renta’s collection…she scored top honors: opening and closing the show in a color-block maillot and a strapless silver evening dress, respectively, both of which showed off her jaw-dropping curves (yes, curves!) to spectacular effect.

Wait, wait, wait. Vogue—Vogue?— is celebrating “curves”? I actually closed the magazine to double-check the cover. Sure, Sosa is curvy for a model, if curvy means having enough flesh so that her ribs don't poke out below her collarbone.

Asked how she’s coping with her newly packed schedule of castings, fittings, photo shoots, and fashion shows, Sosa doesn’t hesitate: “I can be tired later!” she says with a megawatt smile. “Right now, I’m loving every minute of it.”

By the conclusions drawn in the previous article, that can mean only one of two things: either Dominican models are in right now, or the only people not hiring non-white models are the editors at Vogue.

That’s right: despite the self-congratulatory piece about Sosa’s success, this month’s major fashion spreads feature not a single woman who doesn’t appear to be Caucasian, and neither does the October issue.

To be fair, there are a few women of color scattered throughout the November edition, primarily in paparazzi shots and event photos. I counted four different photos of Michelle Obama (three of those also depicted Barack), two of Venus Williams (one of which includes sister Serena), a candid of Naomi Campbell, two runway shots of Jourdan Dunn and one of Du Juan, and one pic each of socialite Genevieve Jones, Zoe Saldana, Astrid Munoz, dancer Judith Jamison, and Dr. Iffie Aitkenhead.

And several advertisers demonstrate diversity: Movado’s ad features Kerry Washington, Revlon has Jessica Alba and Halle Berry, and L’oreal ads star Pamela Dos Santos and Ashley Yao.

So I have to wonder what's going on at Vogue. Toasting Sosa's success is great, but why isn’t she—or anyone who resembles her—modeling in the magazine?

Comments

[K2]

Ha. Because diversity is a trend for suckers!

[Athena]

I also have to wonder why the people of color with any sort of clout at Vogue or similar mags don't try to push for more diverse models, and why Franca Sozani is dedicating an entire issue of Italian Vogue to Africa while American Vogue still lags behind in both diversity or even in trying to accomplish anything that is remotely groundbreaking. I think it is about time for Anna Wintour to step down from her position and let someone with a fresh perspective take over.

[kelly]

Because paying lip-service to diversity is better than displaying it? Speaking of which, where's your Essence subscription?

[Athena]

Essence? Really? As someone who has picked up an issue of Essence on a few occasions, it seems to be in conflict because its staff cannot decide who they are trying to market the magazine to and for a magazine that was intended to empower black women it sends a lot of contradicting messages about who they think black women are supposed to be. Also, Essence can't even get behind its own in fashion, since I am sure if you look in the magazine you will find that they insist on promoting Vuitton, Chanel, and every other major European fashion house that does not cater to diversity or even feel the need to buy ad space in the magazine. Essence is a joke that would require its own blog to dissect.

[kelly]

^^^
Well we've got to start somewhere, so why not here? Or since you seem to have much to say about the subject, you can have at it. 1,2,3 GO Athena GO!

[Jessica]

Kelly, am I right in assuming that you are defending Vogue's "display" of diversity? Are you saying that it is better to accept the meager, trend-groping attempts at appearing truly diverse rather than engage in intellectual criticism on the subject?

Yet, you say we "have to start somewhere," indicating that you are dissatisfied with...something; you offer no specifics. I feel this blog provides an ongoing discussion on various topics that I am grateful for, and read in place of reading these magazines. The whole "I don't see you writing a magazine/reading Essence so you can't talk about it" argument is kind of a BS one; if one were to use that argument, however, they could tactfully point out that you yourself have offered no alternative (perhaps you write a magazine or blog, but you have chosen not to share this information).

I'm unsure whether you are satisfied with the diversity that G.O. criticizes, or if you are trying to make the point that G.O. is itself engaging in the behavior it discusses, but doing so merely with a vague display of bitterness and anger and without providing any useful information, without even claiming that you yourself read Essence or whatever magazine you feel offers a diverse mainstream read, though you are quick enough to attack others for not doing so (and imply that reading such a magazine would somehow legitimize this blog's posts).

It is always interesting and useful when a person can deepen the discussion by further questioning the posts rather than just eagerly agreeing with their messages, but I get the feeling you are doing so merely for the sake of argument. Unless you are truly angry with the position taken in this post...in which case, it would benefit you, and the readers, for you to elaborate on the subject, rather than to tell others to do so..."we have to start somewhere" doesn't mean us, it means you too.

[Sepia Fashionista]

When I read that article in the July '08 issue, the word "hypocrite" immediately came to mind.

Until Vogue stops regulating Black models to the inside of their pull out covers (Chanel Iman, Liya Kebede),glorifying Colonial Racism in "Out of Africa" type fashion editorials (June '07 issue just to name one), and starts putting more women of color on their covers, they really can't afford to point fingers.